The
three Gelug monasteries of Sera, Drepung
and Ganden were known collectively
as the "Pillars of the State". As such there was naturally political
rivalry between them. This can even be seen in the naming of this
monastery. Sera, meaning "merciful hail" is a challenge to Drepung
monastery, whose name means "rice heap" in the sense that hail
damages rice. This rebellious monastery, some of whose monks were
famed for their soldiery last challenged power in 1947. In the
course of this failed coup, they even made an attempt on the then
Regent's life.
Founded in 1419, at its height, Sera monastery was residence to more than 5,000 monks and five monastic colleges. Although much less active now, with only several hundred monks currently in residence, one of the most interesting times to visit the monastery is in the afternoon when monks, after finishing their morning scripture classes, can be seen debating in the courtyard.
The monastery is made up of a tsokchen (Great
Hall), three tratsangs (colleges that offer specialised studies)
and thirty khangtsens (residential compounds with chapels reserved
for monks coming from different areas of Tibet).
The tsokchen is Sera's largest building and the
administrative center of the monastery. Built in 1710, the central
assembly hall houses a statue of Sakya Yeshe, the founder of Sera,
flanked by sculptures of the Fifth and Thirteenth Dalai
Lamas . To the rear of the central assembly hall are four
floors, each filled with chapels dedicated to various gods as
well as the monks' quarters.
Sera Me Tratsang, built in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe,
specializes in teaching novices the fundamental precepts of Buddhism.
Its assembly hall is famed for a copper sculpture of Sakyamuni
(Historical Buddha) as well as for murals adorning the numerous
chapels. Ngagpa Tratsang was also built in 1419 by Sakya Yeshe
and is the monastery's Tantric college. Sera Je Tratsang is the
monastery's largest college and was responsible for the instruction
of itinerant monks from outside the region. The famous debating
courtyard is located with this tratsang.
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