Jiri Mountain and Hwaeom Temple

Designated as South Korea’s first National Park in 1967, it is a massive mountain range that spans three provinces — North and South Jeolla and South Gyeongsang — making it the largest terrestrial national park in the country. Along with Hallasan on Jeju Island and Seoraksan in the northeast, it is revered as one of the three spiritual mountains of the peninsula. Its name, Jiri, roughly translates to “the mountain that turns the foolish into the wise,” reflecting its historical role as a refuge for hermits, scholars, and those seeking separation from the secular world.

However, the mountain’s deep, winding valleys also possess a darker modern history. During and after the Korean War, the rugged terrain served as the final stronghold for North Korean partisan fighters. Cut off from their supply lines, thousands of partisans hid in the dense forests of Jirisan, engaging in a desperate guerilla war against the South Korean military that lasted well past the 1953 armistice. This history adds a layer of tragic gravity to the landscape; the beautiful valleys that hikers traverse today were once the stage for a brutal, internecine struggle for survival.

Nestled on the southwestern slopes of this massive peak is Hwaeomsa Temple. Founded in 544 AD, it is one of the most important head temples of the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. The temple was named after the Avatamsaka Sutra (Hwaeom in Korean), also known as the Flower Garland Sutra, and serves as a center for Hwaeom philosophy, which teaches that all things in the universe are interconnected. Unlike many Korean mountain temples that are compact and tucked into narrow ravines, Hwaeomsa is grand and spacious, reflecting the immense scale of the mountain behind it.

Its most significant structure is the Gakhwangjeon Hall, a two-story wooden giant that is designated a National Treasure. Rebuilt in 1702 after the original was destroyed during the Japanese invasions of 1592, it is one of the largest historic wooden structures in Korea. Its imposing size is matched by the massive natural stone and wood pillars used in its construction. These pillars were left unhewn—meaning they were not shaved down to be perfectly straight cylinders but retain the natural, crooked shape of the trees—honoring the natural form of the wood. Standing in front of the hall is the largest stone lantern in Korea, the Four Lion Three-Story Stone Pagoda. This unique structure features four stone lions supporting the pagoda on their heads, symbolizing the strength of the Buddhist law supporting the universe.

The temple is also famous for its wild tea patches. The monks here have cultivated tea for over a thousand years, claiming to be one of the birthplaces of Korean tea culture. The bamboo groves surrounding the temple are used to collect “bamboo dew” tea (jukro-cha), a rare variety of tea fed by the dew that drips from the bamboo leaves, known for its distinct, clean flavor.