SEOUL

A sprawling megacity of nearly 10 million people, it is defined by the powerful coexistence of its ancient past and its hyper-modern present. The city’s identity is one of dynamic contrast, where the quiet dignity of a 600-year-old Joseon Dynasty palace stands in the shadow of a glass skyscraper. This juxtaposition is not accidental but is the result of a rapid, compressed history that saw the city transform from a feudal capital to a global powerhouse in less than a century.

The city’s historical core is anchored by the legacy of the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), which established Seoul (then called Hanyang) as its capital. This era left the city its most famous landmarks: the Five Grand Palaces. The presence of five palaces was not a sign of extravagance, but one of practical necessity. The dynasty’s history was marked by frequent destruction from wars, rebellions, and fires. This required kings to have multiple, separate residences (known as detached or satellite palaces) to move to when the main palace was unusable. In fact, Joseon kings were known for their frugal-mindedness; after the main Gyeongbok Palace was burned down in 1592 during the Japanese invasions, it was left in ruins for 270 years because its reconstruction was deemed too great a burden on the peasantry.

For most of the dynasty, Changdeok Palace served as the de facto primary residence and was often used as a single complex with the adjacent Changgyeonggung Palace, together known as Donggwol, or the East Palace. It wasn’t until the 19th century that Gyeongbok Palace was rebuilt. Later, after the assassination of his wife in 1895, King Gojong moved his residence to Deoksugung Palace (then Gyeongwoongung) because it was situated closer to the foreign diplomatic missions, offering him greater safety during a time of political turmoil.

This historical foundation stands in sharp contrast to the modern metropolis that emerged from the Miracle on the Han River, a period of explosive economic growth and industrialization in the latter half of the 20th century following the devastation of the Korean War. Today, Seoul is a showcase of futuristic architecture, from the soaring Lotte World Tower — the tallest building in the OECD — to the flowing, neo-futuristic lines of the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) designed by Zaha Hadid. The city is organized into distinct districts, each with its own character: Gangnam is the sleek center for business and luxury retail made famous by global pop culture; Hongdae is the energetic hub of youth culture, indie music, and art universities; and Myeongdong is a bustling epicenter of cosmetic shopping and street food. A central feature of modern Seoul is the Cheonggyecheon Stream, an urban renewal project that transformed a covered-over highway into an 11-kilometer-long public park, symbolizing a city that honors its roots while constantly innovating.